December 14, 2012


Celeste Gang Switch

In order to convince the console to play a sixth rank (it was only designed to play five) I had to get a little creative with the wiring.  To do this, I had to ‘piggy-back’ the Celeste off of the Salicional.  My original plan was to send the electrical current from the Salicional pin to both the Salicional and Celeste pipe.  When the Salicional alone was drawn, only the Salicional would speak because the Celeste stop would actually be a switch in the common negative wire going from the Celeste back to the rectifier.  When both stops are drawn, both ranks would speak.  I was advised that this would probably work, but I would need to install flyback diodes on each magnet because the magnets would act as an inductor and create all sorts of arcing and electric mayhem in the console.  I don’t know much about electronics and I have no clue how to determine the correct size and capacity diode to use.

Plan B involved building a gang switch out of left-over parts I had lying around the shop and installing it before the Celeste magnets.  Drawing the Celeste stop would activate the gang switch and electric current would be sent to both the in-tune and Celeste rank.  This arrangement eliminates the need for diodes, but requires me to build a switch.  Plus more moving parts and electrical contacts could mean higher maintenance in the future.  Building the switch is not difficult, just time consuming.

I solicited the opinions of the people on an organbuilder’s forum and everyone recommended the gang switch.  A number of people also offered to sell me a used switch they had on hand at a ‘very reasonable price’.  Thanks to Tim Bovard from Nichols & Simpson in Arkansas who promptly got a switch in the mail to me.

When it arrived I gave it a cleaning and testing and it was ready to install.  All I had to do was run a cable from the Salicional junction pins to the gang switch, then a cable from the switch to the Celeste junction pins.  I mounted it in the console (these work best in a vertical position, and that’s just the place I had for it) and ran a wire to the stop tab contacts.  The finished part is pictured below as installed in the bass-side of the console.  It took a full day to install, but was well worth it!  Much easier than building my own switch!



New HVAC System Installed

So, I realize this isn't directly related to the organ, but I had to get this home improvement project done before the organ is be installed.

My furnace was originally installed in 1956.  It was a massive thing with a water-cooled air conditioner, which was state-of-the-art at the time.  Although it still worked as well as when it was new, and the AC is very energy efficient (if you don’t mind the outrageous water bill), the furnace was only ~40% efficient.  Every time it kicked on I could picture all those dollar signs going up the flue.  As a result, I only kept the house about 50 degrees all winter and rarely (never) used the AC in the summer.

Although an organ can endure a lack of climate control, it is better to keep it a more consistent and moderate temperature.  An organ will go flat in a cold room and go sharp in a warm one.  The change is about 2 cents per degree.  One 'cent' is 1/100th of a semi-tone.  As long as the temperature in the room is uniform (no warm or cold spots), the organ will generally be in tune with itself, but A isn't going to be 440 Hz when it is very warm or very cold.  When the temperature returns to normal, the tuning generally goes back to normal as well.

A couple weeks ago, I had a new high efficiency furnace with a modern air conditioner installed.  I also had my air ducts cleaned.  Now with better equipment I am keeping the house about 60 degrees in winter and might keep it a little warmer after the organ is installed.  I still don’t plan to use the AC much in the summer.  Hopefully this home improvement project will create a more favorable environment for the organ, and save me some money on utilities (or at least keep me a little warmer in the winter!).



December 10, 2012


Bleaching Keys

I mentioned a while back that sunlight seems to be the best way to bleach the keys back to their (nearly) white color.  Here are a few more photos showing the difference between the bleached and unbleached keys.  

Since taking these photos, I have placed both manuals and all the stop tabs in the greenhouse for bleaching.  After a summer in the sun, they all match and I think they are as white as they are going to be.  Overall, I am very pleased.  I plan to spend some time over Christmas break replacing the felt bushings as needed so I can get the keys back in the console.  I am also ready to send the stop tabs off for re-engraving.

Here's a few more pictures, more of the same: